Friday, November 17, 2023

A Day At Hammenhiel Fort

 If you’r planning for a trip to Jaffna. Is not a well-known to tourists. Yet, those who do make the effort to visit this hidden gem are rewarded with a fascinating glimpse into the past.

The Hammenheil Fort is one of the most beautiful and intriguing historical sites in the Jaffna peninsula. The fort was built and hidden away around a small town between the islands of Kayts and Karaitivu of Jaffna Peninsula and it lies on a small rocky island at the entrance to the Jaffna Lagoon. This fort is octagonal in shape and the base of the ramparts is washed by the surf. It would appear that the walls were originally raised and the place was fortified on the orders of the Portuguese Governor of Jaffna, Antonio do Amaralde Menezes, a few years before the arrival of the Dutch.

------Meaning of Hammenhiel Fort ------

When the Dutch saw the form of Ceylon, they recognized a likeness to a smoked ham. After a 3 month siege, the  Dutch captured the fort in 1658 and renamed it as Hammenhiel means “the heel of the ham,”.

 If your a person who could like to learn about about history, then Hammenhiel Fort is the ideal place for you.

------HISTORY of Fort HAMMENHIEL------

The Hammenhiel Fort was built by the Portuguese in 1618 and named by  Fortaleza Real (Fort Royal). It was designed to be a self-sufficient fortress, with its water supply and defenses. In 1680 Dutch rebuilt and the charming small water fort is located at the spot where the shank bone protrudes . Hammenhiel Fort was held as strategic importance for the Portuguese as a defense against rival colonial powers and control of the region's lucrative trade routes.The fort was only occupied for a short time and today it stands as a proud symbol of the past and  has well-preserved as a testament. Visitors can still see the remains of the water system and the defensive walls.

This place was located in an island full of coral, by 1658 the Dutch  constructed the fort using coral lime- stones after realizing that the wood fort had disintegrated owing to sea erosion and North-East Monsoon storms. Additionally, Dutch built two quarters with 9 gun depots beneath them and 19 cannons positioned above and also stored rain water on wooden tanks to drink. Once the British took control of the Fort a disease of leprosy started to spread across Jaffna.British had to put those  leprosy patients into a storage rooms till they passed away. After the independence in 1948, fort got  belonged to the Sri Lankan government. So, the government rented out two quarters for two powerful Dutch families from 1960 to 1969.

                                                ------Eco tourism and sustainability------

Hammenhiel Fort not only offers historical significance but is also a prime example of eco-tourism and sustainability. The fort has been beautifully restored and maintained, blending harmoniously with its natural surroundings. The local authorities have implemented sustainable practices, ensuring minimal environmental impact while preserving the fort's authenticity and historical value.

   ------What makes Hammenhiel Significant ?------



The Hammenhiel Fort lies in its historical importance as a defense fort during the colonial period. It is a testament to the rich and diverse history of Sri Lanka and showcases the influence of various colonial powers in shaping the region's past.


                                                                      

                                                                              --




------ Traveling Directions to Hammenhiel Fort in Jaffna------

        Jaffna can be reached through 2 directions:

 1.       Over the Elephant Pass which is the normal route to Jaffna.

 2.     From Pooneryn over  (Sangupiddi Bridge- which is newly built). This road connects to Mannar.

Route 01 from Colombo to Jaffna ( Through Kurunegala )

Route 02 from Colombo to Jaffna ( Through Puttalam )

Through : Kurunegala – Dambulla – Anuradhapura – Vavuniya
Distance :
400 km
Travel Time : 7-8 hours
Driving Directions : Prefer Google map

Through : Puttalam – Anuradhapura – Vavuniya
Distance :
400 km
Travel Time : 7-8 hours
Driving DirectionsPrefer on Google maps

 

Route from Jaffna -  Hammenhiel Fort

Distance :24 km
Travel time : 30-40 mins
Driving directions : Prefer  google map

 HOW TO VISIT HAMMENHIEL FORT -  FROM JAFFNA TOWN.

Jaffna Town => Karainagar => Karainagar Jetty => Fort Hammenhiel Resort



Route 01 - From  Jaffna - Ponnaly - Ponnalay Bridge - Karainagar

Route 02- From Vaddukodai Junction- Ponnaly- Vaddukoda –Moolai- Karainagar

3.5km Undeveloped road near Vadukoddai junction

Come to Vaddukodai Junction and drive 1km on B437, take a left turn on B436 road towards Ponnaly.

It will take you through the two beautiful villages of Vaddukodai and Moolai

  TIP   Its better to chose Route 02 as an alternative route that is worth taking! Beacause , yet there are still few un mainted broken roads – but these are nothing compared to the stretch close to Vadukoddai Junction. If you're unable to communicate in Tamil, use English words and hand gestures. 

Where to stay?

------Fort Hammenhiel Resort------

The Fort Hammenhiel Resort is located at the beach. After the defeat of the LTTE in September 2015 the Sri Lanka Navy made great efforts to fully restore and convert this fort in to a boutique hotel. It’s a beautiful resort with awe-inspiring views of the sea and a nearby island’s fort. The service was of European caliber and was extremely quick and friendly.In 2012, Hammenhiel fort was converted into a vibrant and luxurious holiday resort. Now, with its renovated quarters inside, it has become an even more remarkable  hidden destination for visitors.

So don’t wait any longer – let’s get going!

 To reach the restaurant you can travel by bus or get a tuk -tuk

Stone steps led to the upper floor with yet another square with large trees. Four large rooms to one side have been converted to luxury accommodation and the view out to sea from the square and a terrace with tables and chairs for alfresco dinning was impressive. Now its Open for visitors to explore history through its walls.

 HOW TO GET THERE You must get the bus for Karainagar from  Jaffna bus terminal

Cost  (Bus Fair) LKR 140 Per Person , Tuk -Tuk for LKR 500

By bus This is a relatively inexpensive method to get there, but the Fort Hammenhiel Resort is located at the beach, about 1km from the main road. So you have to walk there or take a bus or tuk-tuk 

TIP-  Request the conductor to drop you off at Hammenhiel fort. If you are unable to communicate in Tamil, try using English words and hand gestures. Some conductors know Sinhala.

 Hire a Motor Bike You can use the local rental motorbikes or International scooter rental services in Jaffna .These are the few  cheap travelling options I suggest, but yet I bear no responsibility for the services they offer.

 Cost  LKR1500-2500     Tip Use google Maps or refer to the mentioned road above.

 


The navy boat will guide and take you far out into the Jaffna channel before returning to the mainland. 





Booking  for Hammenhiel Fort



 Booking is easy – head to the website and reserve your spot or call- their website contains the contact numbers as well.





Gain  prisoners' experience on a hotel stay in Hammenhiiel Resort


Most funniest experienced is the resort will make you to   gain a prisoners' experience for a greater price.Where you will get a  prisoner’s costume as wear, a trunk box  and food on an aluminum plate and cup like in the picture below.

Cost -⮞ Get a bed for LKR 2200  , with food for LKR 6600.  one of the quarters for LKR 11,500 (room only) or With food for 02pax is LKR22,000 

------ Explore the Cells of Hammenhiel Fort------


A navy guide showed us around. Where i had to walk through the tunnel like entrance to a shady courtyard surrounded by numbered cells where prisoners were held in the past. Some of them have been converted to tourist accommodation offering a taste of prison life in years gone by. Cell number 3 was where Rohana Wijeweera, the leader of JVP was held during the 1971 left-wing insurrection. In his there you will be able to see a verse written by him about gathering around to lessen the misuse of private property. 

------ Boat Riding------

------ Where to EAT?------

We drove along a winding dirt track lined with Palmyra trees to the big iron gate. The board said Fort Hammenhiel Compound. The blue clad navy security man opened the gate for us to drive up to the new waterfront restaurant with Fort Hammenhiel in the distance.The restaurant served us a buffet lunch of traditional Sri Lankan rice & curry. We relaxed for a while in the spacious, open lounge and walked to the end of the long pier to board a navy speed boat to travel the short distance to the fort. 

Cost - The price of the food is a bit pricy - But the taste is good.

 ------What food & drink options are available at Fort Hammenhiel Resort?------

 Various types of food and drink options are available. Click for more information.



Twins Tip - The weather in jaffna is super hot. So it is best to check the weather before optiing for the prison cell stay as there are no fans or modern facilties.

------Explore the close by attractions:------

1.  Jaffna Archaeological Museum:Located within the fort, this museum houses a collection of artifacts and exhibits that showcase the cultural heritage of the Jaffna region. It's a great place to learn about the history and artifacts of the area.Read More


2. Explore Nallur Kovil:

Located in close proximity to Hammenial Fort, Nallur Kovil is a famous Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Murugan. It is known for its intricate architecture and vibrant festivals. Take some time to visit this spiritual site and admire its beauty. Read More




3.Kovilian point ( Karaitive island) Light House: 


Its 5.83 KM away from Hammenhiel fort. L
ocated on Karaitive Island, also known as Kovilian Island, in the Indian Ocean. It is situated at the Kovilian Point, which is the southernmost tip of the island. Read More

4. Kayts isalnd  


Its 1.3KM away from Hammenhiel fort located in the Jaffna District of Sri Lanka. It is the largest island in the Jaffna Peninsula and is situated in the Palk Strait, which separates Sri Lanka from India. Read More


5. Ruins of the dutuch church at st. Anthony's church kayts 

Its is 2.06km away from Hammenhiel fort and it has been a historical site located in Kayts, a small island off the northern coast of Sri Lanka. The church was originally built by the Dutch during their colonial rule in the 17th century .Read More


6.  Delft Island


Delft Island, also known as Neduntheevu, is a small island located off the coast of Jaffna. It is known for its unique geological formations, wild ponies, and colonial ruins. Take a boat ride from Hammenial Fort to explore this picturesque island.Read More   Click here to explore around Delft island on my previous blog


Conclusion

Overall, the combination of the historical significance of the fort and the implementation of eco-tourism practices makes Hammenhiel Fort in Jaffna a must-visit destination for tourists looking for an immersive and sustainable travel experience.

References

Dam, J.L., & van Leiden, J.A. (2019). Forts in Sri Lanka, a glance back at colonial times. Accessed from: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/337278261_Forts_in_Sri_Lanka_a_glance_back_at_colonial_times

TheCultural Significance of Hammenhiel Fort (2021). Accessed from:https://exploresrilanka.lk/cultural-significance-hammenhiel-fort/

 Guidelines for Sustainable Tourism Development in Sri Lanka (2018). Accessed from: http://www.srilanka.travel/contentFile/1_upfiles/downloads/Premium-Higher-Guest-Houses.pdf







Tuesday, November 14, 2023

Sangali Kotai : Explore the Ruains of Jaffna Kingdom

 When we think of Jaffna, However, there are many well-known attractions in the area, such as  Nagadeepa Temple, the iconic Jaffna Fort and the beautiful Nallur Kandaswamy Temple often come to mind. But yet there are also hidden gems waiting to be discovered. 

One such hidden gem is Sangali Kotai,is not as popular as other attractions in the area, yet its making  a perfect spot for those seeking tranquility peaceful escape due to it has a beautiful kingdom with rich cultural history and with inscribable wood carvings that is tucked away in the rural outskirts of Jaffna.  

Apart from exploring the fort, visitors can also indulge in various activities in and around Sangili Kottai. The picturesque surroundings offer opportunities for eco-tourism, such as nature walks and bird watching. If your  a perosn who is much interetsed findings of anicent history this place is for you and the nearby Jaffna Lagoon is a great spot for boating and fishing.😉

Sangili Kottai,is  as a  small remote village with a kingdom which is located on the Jaffna-Point Pedro Road, close to  Nallur in Jaffna District. Sangili Thoppu Palace belonging to the village of Nallur in the Grama Niladhari Division of Sangiliyan Thoppu bearing No. J-109 in the Divisional Secretariat Division, Nallur is an archaeological protected monument, declared by a government Gazette notification published on 23 February 2007 and it was  formerly known as Singhanagar, it was the capital of the ancient Jaffna kingdom , which is  about 3.2Km from Jaffna bus stand and about 10 km east of Jaffna city. Traveling about 950m  on the Point Pedro road from the Nallur Kandasamy Temple in Jaffna you will come across a arch of a colonial building right next to the road with a canopy covering it from the elements of nature. 

 This house is in ruins an histrocal significant but until today it has been s a hidden gem due to it not as famous as some other tourist destinations in the country, but it is definitely worth a visit in Sri Lanka because this is ancient design  can certainly give an insight into the house construction techniques used during the reign of King Sangilian which is still seen in the Nallur area after sevral years of decay.

 However, architecture style is typical of Dutch style, and it could have been renovated by the Dutch. The general consensus is that this was the entrance to mansion of a wealthy tamil individual Poothathamby, a local administrator from the Dutch period. Thus this arch is known as Poothathamby Arch Irrespective of its origin, few hundred feet away from this structure you will come across foundation of a building which is generally thought as a part of the Sangili Toppu building complex. Next to this lies a large artificial pool now restored after the war. This foundation has been now designated as a protected archaeological monument.

History

The palace was the home to the Aryacakravarti dynasty which became a powerful force in the North and North-East of the islands prior to the conquest of the Portuguese into the island. According to Ibn Batuta, a renowned Moroccan historian, the kingdom had two capitals; Nallur was one and the other being Puttalam presently in the North Western Province.

During the existence of nallur rajadhani last king of the kingdom of the people in the northern part of the country was Sankiliyans. But with the arrival of Portuguese rule in Sri Lanka. The fall of the kingdom was inevitable. This arch is found in the land where the earlier Tamil king sangiliyans palace stood. Now there is an entrance arch. But this is said to be part of a later Dutch building. Mainly there are two opinions regarding the origin of this monument. As this monument is named after King Sangili/Sangilian (1619 A.D.), some believe that this arch could be a part of his palace (Dias et al., 2016) or King Sangili is considered the last king of the Jaffna Kingdom (Dias et al., 2016). However, according to some, Sangili refers to King Sangili Segarajasekaram (1519-1564 A.D.) who is known for ordering the massacre of Christian converts and priests (Haramoto et al., 2015). 

According to the other opinion suggested by some authors such as Dr Kunarasa, this arch was a part of the headquarter of Poothathamby Mudaliyar, a Tamil administrator who lived during the Dutch Period [(1658-1796 A.D.) Dias et al., 2016; Wijebandara, 2014].  Read More

Eco tourism and Sustainability

Sangeliyan Kotti in Jaffna is a historically significant and culturally rich location that has the potential to become a popular tourist destination. However, certain improvements and strategies need to be implemented in order to attract more visitors and make it a thriving eco-tourism spot. To begin with, the local government and relevant authorities need to invest in infrastructure development in and around Sangeliyan Kotti. This includes creating proper roads and pathways leading to the site, installing informative signage, and improving amenities such as public toilets and resting areas for visitors Additionally, efforts should be made to enhance the conservation and preservation of the environment surrounding Sangeliyan Kotti. This can be achieved through strict regulations and guidelines for tourists, providing education on the importance of protecting the ecosystem, and implementing sustainable waste management and recycling practices.

Furthermore, promoting the cultural and historical significance of Sangeliyan Kotti through marketing campaigns and educational programs can attract both local and international tourists who have an interest in heritage tourism. Collaborations with local universities, research institutes, and cultural organizations can help create awareness and develop engaging activities and exhibitions at the site.

Moreover, creating eco-friendly accommodation options and organizing nature-based activities such as guided tours, bird-watching, and hiking can further attract eco-tourists to Sangeliyan Kotti. This will not only provide visitors with unique experiences but also generate revenue and employment opportunities for the local community. Collaborative efforts between the tourism industry, local communities, and environmental organizations are crucial in promoting Sangeliyan Kotti as a popular destination for eco-tourism. These efforts can include public-private partnerships, community involvement in the planning and management of tourism activities, and initiatives to empower local communities through entrepreneurship and skill development.It is also important to conduct regular monitoring and evaluation of tourism activities in Sangeliyan Kotti to ensure that they are aligned with sustainable practices and do not negatively impact the local ecology and cultural heritage.

Map of the Sangiliyan Mansion

To reach Jaffna there are 2 directions:

1. Over the Elephant Pass which is the normal route to Jaffna.

2.  From Pooneryn over the newly built Sangupiddi Bridge ,  this road connects to Mannar.


Route 01: From Colombo - Jaffna (Through Kurunegala)

Route 02 : From Colombo- Jaffna (Through Puttalam)

Through : Kurunegala – Dambulla – Anuradhapura – Vavuniya
Distance : 400 km
Travel Time : 7-8 hours
Driving Directions : Prefer Google map

Through : Puttalam – Anuradhapura – Vavuniya
Distance :
400 km
Travel Time : 7-8 hours
Driving Directions : Prefer Google map

 

Travel directions from Jaffna town to Ruins of the Sangiliyan Mansion

Distance: 5 km
Travel time: 10 min
Time to spend: 15-30 mins
Driving directions: Prefer Google map

What makes Sangali Kotai special ?










Highlights|Sangali Kotai is also transcribed in various names such as Sangalee Kottai, Sangilian Thoppu, Sangiliyan Thoppu, Sangilian Facade, CankilianThoppu or Poothathamby Walaivu. It's the remarkable ancient bathing well, which gives the village its name. This well is believed to have been built during the reign of the Jaffna Kingdom in the 13th century and it’s unique architecture and historic significance made it a must-visit destination for history enthusiasts. Today, it serves as a remarkable testament to the engineering marvels of the past.

Architecture Ruins of the foundation of the Cankilian Thoppu, is abit away from the current Cankilian Thoppu, and considered as another facade of the palace. The construction of the Royal Palace has been ordered by Cinkai Ariyan Cekaracacekaran. But, another source says that the palace and a flower garden was built by a Tamil king named Koolanghai in 104 AD. There were two main roadways and four temples at the four gateways that have now been destroyed. The rebuilt temples that exist now do not match their original locations which instead are occupied by churches erected by the Portuguese. 

The center of the city was Muthirai Santhai (market place) and was surrounded by a square fortification around it. There were courtly buildings for the kings, Brahmin priests, soldiers and other service providers in the palace premises. The old Nallur Kandaswamy temple functioned as a defensive fort with high walls. In general, the palace and the city was laid out like the traditional temple towns in South India.

Destruction |The Jaffna Palace was significantly damaged during the Portuguese conquest of the Jaffna Kingdom. The fall of Cankili II, the last of the ruling dynasty at the hands of a 5,000 men-strong Portuguese invaders inevitably meant the fall of the Jaffna throne. During the 40Years of  Portuguese war ,the Portuguese destroyed Hindu temples in the region, the royal repository of all literary output of the kingdom. Yamuna EriCankili Thoppu archway and at the  back of the building, there is an area that appears to be the foundation of the palace and a pond (Haramoto et al., 2015)

Ruins of the foundation of the Cankilian Thoppu and Mantri Manai are few of the only remaining parts of the palace apart from several small monuments that dot the compound.

Activities to do.

All of the below sights can be visited either on foot or by tuk tuk; we found Jaffna compact enough to walk, though we did cover a fair number of KM.

  Sangiliyan Statue

       The Sangiliyan equestrian statue , is erected in 1974 and  dedicated to the Jaffna Kingdom’s last                     monarch, Segarasasekaran VIII (1617–1619), who is known as Cankili II (Sangili II). 

Critics from one side say, the old statue was too heroic, critics from the other side think, Sangili II, a controversial figure in Sri Lanka, was an usurper who killed Tamil opponents and was defeated by the Portuguese because they didn’t accept his reign and deported to Goa (India) and executed, Although Sangali II was  Supported by Tamil troops from southern India he was executed in Goa and Kandyan King Senerat II to supported him due to  the foreign invaders from Portugal were the common enemy of both the Tamil and the Sinhalese principalities. However, Tamil freedom fighter Sangili II is not held in high esteem by Sinhalese nationalists. his is why the statue is a political issue. with critics arguing that the old statue was too heroic and the new statue is not heroic as Bertolt Brecht once stated: Unhappy that country that needs heroes. 
  • Type : Equestrian statue
  • Material : 1500 brigs and 10 packets of cement
  • Completion date  : 1974 - rebuilt 2011
  • Reign  : 1617–1619
  • Predecessor : Ethirimana Cinkam (Parasasekaran VIII)
  • Successor  : Portuguese conquest
  • Died  : 1619
1.  Explore Sangili Thoppu Archaeological sites to learn about its historical significance.

Cankili Thoppu Archway 

                                              Cankili Thopu, facade entrance of the palace

You will be able to see a remaining  part of a building which has a semi-circular arch opening .It has been made of brick and plastered with lime mortar (Dias et al., 2016).  This lone old arch is know as the Sangili Toppu or  ( Locals call it as Poothathamby Vealaivu (arch) its one of the inscripted carvings   to King Sangili on1519. Some believe that it could be the original entrance to the place and now is the only surviving remnant of the residence of the former Jaffna Kings reigning from Nallur (ancient Cinkainakar). 

Presently, you will be able to see some portions are under construction plaster that had peeled off  and have been repaired with concrete and a simple shelter has been erected over the facade to prevent damage from rain. 

Wood carving at Mantri Manai  Derelict historic palace 

                       

    Yamuna Eri – Ancient bathing pool -

It's an ancient man -made  pond which is  U-shaped used for women’s bathing pool of the royal family. Located near the Mantri Manai palace and the Cankilian Thoppu arch. According to the chronological historical book Yalpana Vaipava Malai, it was built during the reign of Jaffna Kingdom King Cinkai Ariyan Cekaracacekaran I. The text describes the King bringing sacred water from India's Yamuna River and mixing it with the water in the pond. In 1948, it was listed as one of the protected archaeological monuments in the Jaffna District by the Sri Lankan government. Yamuna Eri, also known as the Yamuna Tank. The tank covers an area of approximately 10 acres and is surrounded by lush greenery. Read More

Conclusion

Sangeliyan Kotti has the potential to become a thriving eco-tourism destination in Jaffna. By investing in infrastructure development, conservation efforts, cultural promotion, and eco-friendly tourism activities, Sangeliyan Kotti can attract visitors who are interested in experiencing the rich heritage and natural beauty of the region while ensuring the long-term sustainability of the site. With the right strategies and collaborations, Sangeliyan Kotti can become a model for eco-tourism in Sri Lanka.

References

Shantha, N., & Silva, E. (2017). Creating a Destination Image of Eco-Tourism: A Study on Sri Lanka. Journal of Management Research and Analysis, 4(1), 39-47.

Saravanan, P., & Kumar, S. (2019). Socioeconomic Impacts of Tourism in Jaffna, Sri Lanka. Asian Social Science, 15(8), 69-81.

Thirunavukarasu, R., & Sivasubramaniam, C. (2012). Challenges faced by eco-tourism industry in Sri Lanka. Journal of International Business and Cultural Studies, 6, 1-11.

Jayasekara, C., & Boominathan, T. (2018). Developing Eco-Tourism in Sri Lanka: Issues and Challenges. 3rd International Conference on Management, Economics and Social Sciences, Proceedings, 268-276 Saravanan, P., & Kumar, S. (2019). Socioeconomic Impacts of Tourism in Jaffna, Sri Lanka. Asian Social Science, 15(8), 69-81.

Thirunavukarasu, R., & Sivasubramaniam, C. (2012). Challenges faced by eco-tourism industry in Sri Lanka. Journal of International Business and Cultural Studies, 6, 1-11.

Jayasekara, C., & Boominathan, T. (2018). Developing Eco-Tourism in Sri Lanka: Issues and Challenges. 3rd International Conference on Management, Economics and Social Sciences, Proceedings, 268-276

 Codrington, Humphry William (1926). "Chapter V: The Dambadeniya and Gampola kings, 1215–1411". A Short History of Lanka. London: Macmillan and Co., Limited. Retrieved 25 November 2007 – via Lakdiva.

 Giritharan, V. N. (1996). "Forward: Nallurt Rajadhani City Layout". Nallur Rajadhani: City Layout. Translated by Ramakrishnan, Latha. Madras: Sneha Pathippagam. Archived from the original on 25 December 2007. Retrieved 2 December 2007.